The Hub for Mezcal and Mole
A 4 day guide to Oaxaca, Mexico in the southern region of Mexico. The mezcal flows like water, coffee ignites your senses, and mole grabs your taste buds. This city/state isn’t just a foodie paradise, its small-town charm and extraordinary flavors will captivate you. With its glorious climate and diverse landscape, Oaxaca is a fertile ground for both coffee and the many varieties of agave that grow here are transformed into the intoxicating elixir we know as mezcal.
A great option is to pair this trip with a visit to Mexico City – CDMX, click here to visit my itinerary.
Tips
- When to go – Our visit was in late February and beautiful temps and dry. Summer can be quite hot in the high desert. Winter may bring some rainy weather.
- Logistics –
- Easy flight access from Mexico City is your best option as there are only a few dedicated international flights to/from OAX airport. Although there are direct flights from California and Texas.
- Official taxis are best from/to the airport. Arrange a cab from the taxi stand inside the terminal or your hotel reception.
- The city is packed with charming boutique hotels, each boasting a mere 15-20 rooms. They come at prices that won’t break the bank!
- What to pack –
- The high desert is hot and dry most of the year so pack light clothing.
- Leave room on your head for a custom hat.
- Sunblock and water are a must.
- Good foot wear for the old streets and lots of walking.
- Google translate can be helpful paired with an E-Sim card.
Day 1 – Oaxaca City Center
OAX airport is a small airport with quick access to the taxis. The official taxi is the way to go with about a 15 minute ride into town. Spend the day walking the city and seeing the historic churches and streets. Small boutiques and coffee shops will fill your day. Stroll among the several squares and parks in the city has to offer.
Day 2 – Custom Hats and Mezcal Research
After indulging in some local coffee to kickstart the day, Head over to Amberly Sombreros, and have a custom cowboy hat crafted. You can even brand your signature on the back of the hat like a true pioneer.
A leisurely walk through the bustling markets became a playground for lunch. One market lures shoppers in for textiles, while the other draws you in with vibrant fruits, veggies, and hawker stalls dishing out local dishes.
Scattered around the city, a handful of daring mezcal businesses (mezcalerias) flaunt their brand, dishing out samples and cocktails while inviting you to snag a bottle to take home. The afternoon was spent diving deep into “research” on mezcal.
Day 3 – Hierve El Algua and Jardin Entnobotanico de Oaxaca
A half day trip Hierve El Agua, the stunning petrified waterfalls is just an hour’s drive from Oaxaca. Breathtaking waterfalls, inviting wading pools brimming with spring-fed water provide the beautiful foreground to the area. But, it’s the unique mineral content that gives the water its astonishing petrified appearance as it cascades from the pools into the valley below.
Upon return to the city center, dive into the enchanting Jardin Ethnobotanical Garden. But the catch is: the tour is strictly scheduled with no English translations, and timing is everything. We opted for the 5 PM tour, arrive a solid 15 minutes early to get a place in this botanical wonderland. Online reservations are not an option, first come, first serve. The tour lasts about an hour, offering plenty of captivating photo ops amidst lush greenery and desert flora and fauna.
Dinner was a delightful mole-based feast. Mole is no ordinary sauce; its secret recipes that differ from family to family. While often associated with a rich chocolate flavor, many variations we encountered didn’t feature chocolate at all! Crafting a mole can take hours, demanding a medley of ingredients that can number in the hundreds, transforming it into a culinary treasure.
Day 4 – Monte Albán and Mezcal Tour
High above the city, is the stunning Monte Alban complex, where an ancient civilization once ruled this land with unwavering dominance. This jaw-dropping historical site casts its gaze over the sprawling valleys below and is teeming with grand buildings, vibrant plazas, and the remnants of homes that whisper tales of a bygone era.
Note – A local taxi can get you to Monte Albán. Arrange for them to wait for you to finish. I suggest arranging the return trip because the remote location does not get much taxi traffic from the city.
Plunge back into town at the food market for lunch. The Hall of Smoke, the heart of the market, is a meat haven where all types of meats are on open-flame grills right beside the tables. The intoxicating smoke wafts through the air, mingling with the bold aroma of charcoal.
Setup a mezcal tour for the evening for your final night. Our driver whisked us away from the hotel (booked through Airbnb) to an enlightening tour on the artisanal mezcal-making process, where you’ll savor a myriad of varieties of agave. While I did want a tour on an actual agave farm, the experience was still nothing short of extraordinary.
